COMMERCIAL FOODWAYS: THE FARMERS' MARKET

Wood County has many roadside produce markets that are usually family-run. These range from small tables set out seasonally on front lawns with a jar for customers to place money in to large-scale operations that are open year-round. These markets offer local produce in season, such as corn, tomatoes, beans, melons, squash, pumpkin, and apples, and also carry produce from other truck farms throughout the year.
Huffman's Produce | Jeffers Produce


Huffman's Produce Stand
Bowling Green, Ohio

Submitted by Julie Jackson

Farmer's MarketsWood County has a history rich in food traditions. The area has many roadside produce markets, but Huffman’s has stood the test of time. Paul Huffman, born in 1927, has been keeping the farm going since it was passed down to him from his father. His family has had a long tradition of growing produce in Wood County. The property has been in the Huffman family for 200 years. The hill where the farm sits was chosen because of the low-lying land around it.

While Paul’s grandfather started the farm, Paul’s father started the produce stand when Paul was just a boy. He built a small table in front of the house and started by selling cantaloupe and melon. These grew the best in the sandy soil found on the family property. By the time the produce stand was handed down, they were selling corn as well as cantaloupe and watermelon.
Farmer's MarketsPaul originally learned his trade from his father, but he also reads every technical journal he can get his hands on. “There’s a lot more to this business than just throwing seed in the ground.” He has books on everything from peppers to weeds. He has at least 20 seed catalogues. He says, “When you spend that kind of money, you want to know what you’re buying.” He studies the crops, he looks over the plants in the field, and he tastes the vegetables to make sure everything is just how it should be. His father taught him about how much hard work it took to be a good farmer. Paul can still remember sitting on the porch after breakfast and waiting for it to be light enough to go work in the fields. Though, he and his brothers did enjoy a break for swimming in the quarry during the afternoon.

The sweet corn sold at the Huffman produce stand is known for miles around. Each morning during the summer, the bins of corn are stocked and by the afternoon, they have to be stocked again. On the weekends, Paul will sell roughly 30 bushels by 4pm. He likes to make sure the customer has nice fresh corn. “We have the reputation of the best corn in the county.” He also warns against overcooking. He only gently boils his sweet corn for 4 to 6 minutes. “Most people cook it till it’s as tough as shoe leather, and they cook it and cook it till it looses its flavor.”

Every summer, he and his wife send invitations out around the country to remind their relatives of the annual family reunion. It is held on his property. This year they had 65 family members turn out for the event. Paul’s sweet corn is also a family favorite. “It’s famous.” “They all come for the sweet corn,” he says. Paul is known for the varieties of sweet corn he grows. He and his wife try to eat as much as possible while it’s in season.

Paul also stands behind his melons. He grows one variety called “Crimson Sweet”. “Oh boy, that’s the best one,” he says, “you just know it’s gonna be great by the name.” The Crimson was his favorite as a boy, and they are still grown today. He also really enjoys a melon called “Sangria” that he grows. If you’re looking for a great cantaloupe, he boasts a variety called “Pride of Wisconsin”. “It’s a great melon.”

Farmer's MarketsAround 1960, Paul decided to start selling pumpkins. This fall favorite proved to be a best seller for his market. He usually takes in about $3000 on pumpkins for the season. Paul grows all sizes of pumpkins, seven varieties in all. The smallest he grows is called “We-B-Little”. He grows some pumpkins that reach 40-50 pounds. He also grows pumpkins that have thick walls, just the right kind for Jack-O-Lanterns.

Farmer's MarketsSquash is another big seller for the fall. He’s now selling a new variety called “Sunspot”. It’s a small red squash with a big flavor. “Every time someone buys one, they come back next time and say ‘give me three or four of them’.”

The winner by far, is the Apple. Paul says that fall “is really the apple season.” Not only is this the apple season, but the Apple region as well. When asked to name a food that would describe this region to outsiders during this time of year, Paul emphatically answered, “Apples.” He sells 9 different varieties of apples, some that many people wouldn’t even know about. His favorite secret weapon is the “Honey Crisp.” He also offers his customers information on what types of apples are best used in different dishes.

Farmer's MarketsFor Paul, this farm is not only a commodity, but also a labor of love. Even during the years he taught school, he raised the family farm every summer and his wife would work the produce stand. When they started, they only had a 3ft by 10ft long table to sell from. Now, he has a very large semi-enclosed market. He makes sure everything is just right for his customers. He says when he looks through his seed catalogues, he always asks himself what the customer would want. Paul says that neither Wal-Mart nor Kroger can compete with his business; they’re not even in the same league. He does sell to some local grocers, such as Bassett’s.

Farmer's MarketsWhen asked about the business side of things, Paul says, “this is one of the most successful roadside markets around here. You wouldn’t believe how much we sell. Five or six other markets have tried to compete, but they all failed. I try to help other people and tell them what to do, but they don’t believe me.” Paul has two rules when it comes to running the produce stand. He believes one of the things customers enjoy so much about his market is how impeccably clean it is. His second rule is to never try and sell anything that he wouldn’t buy himself. If it’s bad, throw it out. “You have to treat the customers right.” Paul also thinks it’s important to include his employees in decision-making. He has periodic meetings so they have a chance to voice their opinions. His employees let him know what needs to be changed to make things even better.

Cleanliness is the most important aspect governing the sale of produce at Huffman’s. All of the tables get cleaned every morning and every night. All of the carpeted shelves get vacuumed. And, all of the produce gets cleaned before it ever hits the shelves. When cleaning tomatoes, he uses a bucket of water with Clorox mixed in to help kill the bacteria. This will keep the tomatoes fresher, longer. He also uses a product called Oxidate to clean his produce. The market utilizes six ceiling fans to help keep the flies away.
Storage also plays a role in keeping all of his vegetables clean and fresh. He uses a large walk in refrigerator to store all of his produce over night or during the day. This is a far cry from early days of food storage. When Paul was young boy, he remembers that as long as you had some shade to put things under when the sun was out, you were o.k. Even in the early days the grocery store in Perrysburg only had a sprinkler system to keep their food cool. During the day, they keep extras in the walk in cooler, and as the bins get low, they bring more out.

At the end of the season, everything gets cleaned for the last time and is put in storage for the winter. The leftover produce is always given to charity.
“Last year I had a full load of apples and squash I gave to charity. This year, a charity out of Toledo is going to come with a big truck to pick up leftover produce. They take it and give it to the poor. I’ve given them 3000 dozen corn, 200 to 300 bushels of cantaloupe. They’ll take everything left, maybe 10 bushels of apples and 10 bushels of squash. I’ve been a very blessed, fortunate man. I don’t owe anybody a penny.”

Paul feels this business represents his best characteristics. He prides himself and his business on being fair, honest, and offering quality. He would never take advantage of anyone, he doesn’t believe in it. People tell him they can’t find produce like his in stores. He has very devoted customers, some he sees at least once a week. Even truckers toot their horn when they drive by.

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Jeffers Produce
Grand Rapids, Ohio

Located on Route 24 outside of Maumee, Ohio, is Jeffers’ farm stand, a prime example of the many changes farm stands have gone through in the last few decades.

Open to the public year round, Jeffers' offers pumpkins, green peppers, summer squash, butternut squash, and acorn squash on a regular basis, and the occasional eggplant, cucumber and zucchini when it is season. These foods are typical to Wood County, but due to farmers no longer just being farmers and having to supplement their incomes with other fulltime jobs, the Jeffers and many other farmers cannot grow all the possible crops. Instead, farmers specialize in a few crops and then buy and exchange produce with each other in order to have a more complete selection at their farm stands. Corn is a prime example of this, Dixie Jeffers stated that she buys it off a guy up the road, who has been growing sweet corn for so long that he has it down to a science.

Earlier it was stated that the farm stand industry has undergone massive changes in the past few decades. Ten to fifteen years ago, the one-stop-shop supermarkets took a huge chunk of their clientele. People were mostly concerned about convenience. In the past couple of years though this has changed. The Jeffers believe that people are getting fed up with the lack of quality in the produce found in supermarkets because the send produce across the country, which is hard on the vegetables and fruit causing the fragile produce to loose proper taste and texture. This constant availability of produce has caused many consumers to not understand when the harvesting of certain produce happens.

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