KOLBASZ SAUSAGE AND HUNGARIAN CULTURE Hungary is a country in Eastern Europe which traces its ancestry aback to the 9th century when the nomads know as Magyars settled along the Danube river. Over the centuries, Hungary has been subject to many invasions and wars, and the foodways have changed with the acquisition of new knowledge regarding food. Hungarian Cuisine A characteristic ingredient used in Hungarian foodways is paprika, a spice made of ground, dried peppers. Paprika was not known in Europe before Columbus' voyage to the New World. Today, this sweet pepper plant is grown in the southern part of Hungary in large fields. Paprika can be mild or red hot. The finest paprika is milder than its relative, cayenne pepper, and contains a small amount of sugar. Representative dishes are Goulash, chicken paprika, and cabbage rolls. Goulash (gulyas) can be traced to 9th century nomadic Magyars who preferred food, which would travel well without spoilage. They would cook a beef and onion mixture slowly until the liquids were gone, then the remnants were dried in the sun to be carried along with them. When ready to eat they simply added water to the meat and heated it over the fire. Today, the traditional dish in Hungary is prepared much the same way with paprika added. Chicken paprika is a dish prepared by browning the chicken in lard, sautéing the onions until lightly golden then added the paprika, garlic, and chicken broth and finished with sour cream. Cabbage dishes are a staple of the Hungarian diet. Cabbage rolls are prepared using a sauerkraut. These are everyday foods of Hungary, which have become identifiers of Hungarian-Americans. Sausage is also an everyday food, as well as a specialty food of Hungary. Kolbasz and the making of it reflect the strong peasant roots of the Hungarian heritage. Immigration In the late 19th and 20th centuries, migration to Toledo, Ohio from Hungary was prompted by economic opportunities and a promise of a better future. Many of these immigrants planned to make enough money in order to return to their homeland, but stayed once they were here. Many settled in the Toledo neighborhood of Birmingham, an area with natural boundaries of railroad tracks, main roadways and the Maumee River, which kept it a close community. Made up of diverse ethnicities, Birmingham is a microcosm of northeastern Hungary. The settlers from Hungary were of strong peasants roots, religious people who tended to emphasize simple honest values. Hungarian Food in NWOH Although adapted to local ingredients and tastes, Hungarian foodways traditions have been retained in many families and Hungarian social institutions, particularly churches. Hungarian cuisine is also available at several commercial establishments in Birmingham. Tony Packo's has adapted the foodways of Hungarians to the American Taste with dishes such as the hot dog and "Packo's" sauce, the Hungarian meatloaf, along with traditional Hungarian dishes such as cabbage rolls, dumplings, and Hungarian beverage known as "Bulls' Blood" to Americans. Other Hungarian restaurants, Zsuzska's in Genoa and The Budapest in the Old West End, serve only Hungarian dishes prepared by recent immigrants who stay close to the original recipes from their homeland. These restaurants contribute greatly to the acceptance of Hungarian foodways by outsiders and help to keep traditions alive in Birmingham and the surrounding Toledo area. Churches and Hungarian Foodways Calvin United Church of Christ (formerly Hungarian Reformed Church), which was founded in 1903, plays an important role in keeping the Hungarian culture and traditions alive in Birmingham and throughout the Toledo area. Once a month, the church kitchen is transformed into a butcher shop where around 900 pounds of kolbasz sausage are made and sold. Historically, the church was made up of working class people who could not afford to contribute much financially to the institution, so sausage making began as a way to help meet the economic needs of the church. Sausage making now has a social aspect by providing an opportunity in which second and third generation Hungarian-Americans can get together and share in a common goal and experience, as well as reminisce about the good old days. Meaning Sausage making is a way to connect the sausage makers and consumers with their ancestors and cultural heritage. The act of sausage making provides a pathway of remembering their heritage and the culture of their homeland. Kolbasz sausage may e considered an everyday food item, which has take on new meaning for the sausage makers. The coming together to make sausage is not only a duty and a means of supporting the church, but also a means of connection to a homeland many of them do not know, a connection to their roots. Preparation The sausage makers, as they are called, consist mostly of retired men although several retired women and one young man are a part of the group. The meat is ordered from the local Hungarian butcher, Louis Takacs. The cut of meat used in the Boston Butt Roast, which is a pork roast, and the best cut for sausage. The actual making of the sausage is a two-day process taking place once a month. On Tuesday (before sausage is made on Wednesday), a small group of two to four of the sausage makers come to the church to clean the natural pork casings and to prepare the garlic. The casings are first rinsed of the salt brine they are packaged in, then attached to a hose through which water is run, and thereby thoroughly cleaned. After cleaning, each length of casing is cut into shorter lengths of about three feet. The garlic is also finely chopped on this day and placed in small containers for the mixing process. Seasoning used includes lemon juice, garlic, paprika, salt, and black pepper. These are mixed with the meat and placed into stuffing machines to be formed into sausage links. Exhibit Images Some of the sausage workers Our Best Home Cooking: Favorite Hungarian-American Recipes Cookbook from Calvin United Church of Christ Quilt made by Alyson Annette Eshelman Twelve men line both sides of the tables, several bone the uncooked roasts and pass to others who trim and cut meat to be placed on the grinders. One man runs the meat grinder and another man places the ground meat in pans, being careful not to overload the pans and make them too heavy to lift and dump into the mixer. Approximately one hundred pounds are taken to the mixer, where Joel, the group president, mixes the meat with the seasonings to create Kolbasz. After mixing, the sausage is taken to the stuffing machines to be formed into sausage links. Each sausage link is then dried with a towel and ready to e weighed and packaged. The links are weighed ad packaged according to orders placed during the month. The packages of sausage ready for delivery. Exhibit Recipes Hungarian Goulas Cabbage Roll Casserole Chicken Paprikas (Paprikas Csirke) Researched by Alyson Annette Eshelman for the 1998 Foodways exhibit "Kolbasz Sausage & Hugarian Culture.
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